Another Hair Tip Tuesday focusing on how to perfect the infamous twist-out! I also hope you were able to check out my Fall Hair Care Tips post from last week :o) Also, here’s a re-cap of the previous 5 Twist-out tips
While this definitely protects your hair and helps retain your length BUT the important part, relating to twist-outs, is that you twirl the ends around your finger as you finish twisting.
The twirling action “clumps” your hair and makes the curl pattern uniform at the end. When the ends of your twist-outs are neat and tidy, it looks so much better and can compensate for any other parts of your hair that may be a bit frizzy towards the roots. It almost disguises it!
If it were the other way around (frizzy ends, defined roots) it can ruin the whole look. By now, you may know how beneficial sealing the ends of your hair is anyway ;o)
The other week in my post about sealing your hair, I mentioned hair porosity. Porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb moisture (water) and is categorized by having low, normal or high porosity. Knowing which type you have is really important because it helps determine your hair needs. It can also explain why certain products work well in someone else’s hair but not yours. Personally, I feel hair porosity is more important than curl pattern/type—just because your hair looks like someone else’s, doesn’t mean what products they use will yield the same results in yours.
Ok, that’s great, soooo how do I know my hair’s porosity?
There’s a couple of ways, as in all things, nothing is 100% accurate so it’s best to just try different things and pay attention to what type of products/ingredients your hair responds to best. You’ll be able to see a pattern. But for now, here’s an exciting :o) test I found on the net:
The Glass Water Test: Take a clean strand of shed hair (a hair from your scalp, not a broken off piece) and place it in a glass of water. You have:
High porosity – Your hair immediately sinks; your hair cuticle is open so it absorbs moisture easily
Low porosity – Your hair sits on top of the water; your hair cuticle is compact so it does not absorb moisture easily
Normal porosity – Your hair sinks to the bottom of the glass slowly; you are lucky and your hair absorbs moisture normally (grrrr….)
This graphic from www.hairfinder.com helps illustrate the hair cuticle and porosity (I’m a visual learner…I need visuals! lol)
Hair does not absorb moisture easily because the hair cuticle is compact, but once the hair cuticle is opened, it stays moisturized longer since moisture can’t escape easily.
Products tend to “sit” on top of hair and can look beaded or white. Eventually it absorbs into hair but It’s best to use lighter products and don’t go too heavy with them. You only need to re-moisturize every few days or so.
It takes awhile for hair to “get wet” in the shower and water looks “beaded”
Your hair doesn’t take to color very well, meaning it takes longer for color to process (but on the box the chart said my hair would be that color!).
Types of ingredients/products best for Low porosity hair.
Humectants i.e. aloe vera, Glycerin (*NOTE: humectants work best in climates that are humid; if you live in dry areas, humectants can pull moisture from your hair rather than the air and can dry it out)
Ayurvedic treatments (help open cuticle)
Products with higher pH
High Porosity Hair
Hair absorbs moisture easily/fast yet becomes dry/frizzy. You have to moisturize often because hair cuticle is open and moisture leaves as quickly as it enters.
Moisturize at least once a day and be sure to seal your hair so moisture can’t get out.
Hair can get really dry, prone to breakage and split ends, needs a little more TLC :o)
Hair can become overly porous if you have over-processed hair i.e. color, relaxer, texturizer. The strands of your hair feel rough and uneven.
Types of ingredients/products best for High porosity hair.
Proteins (helps fill the gaps in the hair cuticle)
High-acidic conditioners (low pH; specified for damaged or color-treated hair)
Apple Cider Vinegar rinses (helps seal the cuticle)
Cold water rinses
Products with lower pH
I am no scientist but hopefully this makes sense and gives you a better idea of the importance of porosity. After doing research on hair porosity, I definitely had to re-think some things I had been doing my regimen so I plan to make updates to it soon! Do your own research, pay attention to ingredients in your hair products and listen to your hair :o)
So my last post was about sealing your hair, so I feel like this would be a good opportunity to introduce one of my new fav products…Oyin Handmade Sugar Berries Humectant Hair Pomade! It’s an all-vegetable oil pomade that is great for sealing. I bought mine off of CurlMart for $12 for 4 oz. of product.
This stuff smells sooo yummy! It’s super sweet, juicy and fruity. I also recently got the sample size of Oyin’s Burnt Sugar Pomade, which is the exact same thing but their original scent . That one smells really yummy too and is more of a caramel, sugary scent (which I think I actually like better). Either way, your hair will be smellin good!
I was kind of surprised at the consistency when I first got it. When I thought of pomade, what came to mind is something really thick, waxy, hard and would smooth down edges (like Murray’s Hair Dresssing lol) but this definitely dispelled that thought. I guess that was my naivety. But it turns out I love it so it worked out!
This pomade is definitely rich in oil and is a humectant (great for my low porosity hair). It is solid in the jar but as soon as you rub it with your fingers it melts into a thick (but not heavy) oil. It will definitely keep your hair coated and lock in the moisture. You don’t have to reapply this often. Keep this in a cool place or you may have a greasy, liquidy mess!
I’ve been using this on my ends for twist outs and it keeps my ends nice and sealed for days at a time. I do go a little heavy on this since it is pretty light. It ads lots of shine yet it doesn’t feel super greasy or weighted down.
I paired this with Oyin’s Whipped Pudding (on the length of my hair for a twist-out) and I really, really liked the results! Now I have NOT used the pomade with other products yet so I we will have to see how it turns out.
Check out some pics of my week old hair (I re-twisted my hair 2x since I had washed it):
— Have you tried this product? Do you use it in any other way besides sealing?
…or maybe just your hair lol so I finally embraced this wonderful hair practice about 6 months ago. I am a bit ashamed to say that, being that I have been natural for 7 years now. Why had I not known about this YEARS ago!? I’m like how many wasted inches of damaged hair could I have saved had I known lol but whatever dude. It’s never too late to start! Ok I’m done venting…
So the matter at hand…Sealing your hair!
Basically sealing your hair is sealing in moisture (water) into the cuticle of your hair. This is done by using water (or a water-based product) and an oil (or an oil based product).
***Sidebar, I may have said this before but I’ll say it again hehe, water is the only true form of moisture! That’s why it’s the number one listed ingredient in “moisturizing” products. Without water, it isn’t really a moisturizer…
Ok so when you grasp the concept of sealing, it totally makes sense! Think about it, oil and water don’t mix—Oil always rises to the top, so if you have oil and water in your hair, the oil will “rise” to the outer layer of your hair shaft while sealing in the water underneath.
You may want to start doing this If your ends feel a bit crispy and look frizzy or frayed. They are probably not sealed (OR you need to get rid of them split ends girl lol). Essentially the purpose of sealing your hair is to keep your hair moisturized and for longer amounts of time, specifically the ends of your hair. Sealing will help retain moisture in the ends as they are the oldest, driest parts of your hair and the natural oil (sebum) that your scalp produces can’t travel down through all the coils and curves to get to the ends. Regular sealing will result in more length retention since you won’t have to trim off as much damaged hair.
Knowing the porosity of your hair is also really important in order to know what method of sealing and the products to use. I will save that topic for another post ;o)
So because I have low porosity hair, Iighter oils (like coconut, grape seed) and liquid-y products (think Karen’s Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia, SM Coconut Curl Smoothie) work better for me. Here’s what I do on wash days, after I wash/condition and am ready to twist-up my hair while it is still damp:
I apply a moisturizer to the length of my sectioned out hair (sectioned as in the section I am about to twist up). If I am using a moisturizer, I may go over it with a light oil. If the moisturizer contains a lot of oil in the product, I won’t go over it with additional oil because the moisturizer itself IS the sealant.
If I am not using a moisturizer, I’ll use a bit of oil to seal in JUST the water in my damp hair. I like doing this sometimes because it keeps my hair light BUT the downside is I may not get as much hold as using an actual moisturizer i.e. I won’t get good 2nd, 3rd day hair.
Now for the absolute essential part of the sealing process….the end!
…the ends of your hair of course! Seal the ends! I do this when I have about 1-2 inches left to twist in each section, I use a sealant (check out my .essentials page; currently loving Oyin’s Pomades) and smooth it on the ends, then twist up the remainder. It’s also good to sort of twirl the ends around your finger to “clump” the section.
You’ll know your ends are sealed when they look something like this:
*Notice how the curls are “clumped” together. I hope you have a better understanding of this awesome hair practice and will be able to incorporate sealing into your hair regimen!